? ? ? ???? After I left the noodle shop the night switched ON the city I had been looking for. Like magic, the shapes of reality around me slowly evaporated into the darkness, as if nothing had really been there all along. I imagined glass tubes being manufactured and filled with neon and argon gas to shine in red and blue once electrified while black LED walls were waking up. Tom Wolfe calls it electro-graphic architecture, when instead of becoming invisible, the urban landscape changes for the evening. Floodlit buildings become landmarks in the darkness, but they really are just nocturnal spectacles, ephemeral outlines of shop signs and advertisements. Still, this is what I was looking for. This other Tokyo. The gaming arcades, bars, and hotels at the Kabukicho or Akihabara districts would never vanish. Restaurants, gas stations, and theaters want to stand out, but instead, they become the crowd. Yet, it’s not about popularity anymore. It’s fighting against disappearance, even if always only for a night.